A Trip to the Berkshires
About halfway through dinner on Saturday, I looked across the table at my husband. His head was down, his fork moving rhythmically: cut, scoop, eat, repeat. Where was the romantic hand holding and staring into each others’ eyes? After all, we were on our 1 year anniversary trip. Well, we did plenty of that AFTER we ate. While the food was out, neither of us wanted to interrupt our dining with conversation, romantic or otherwise. We just wanted to eat our dinners–plates that paralleled anything we’ve recently eaten in Brooklyn.
The source of our dining pleasure? Nudel, in Lenox MA. Last weekend, we vacationed to the Berkshires of Western Massachusetts. We left Brooklyn on Friday, exhausted, soaked (thanks to the torrential downpours), and eager to escape to nature.
Our interest in the Berkshires stemmed from two factors: 1) we had quickly driven through Great Barrington last year and liked what we saw and 2) I had some basic knowledge of the area, as my aunt and uncle live in Amherst. Our visit last August was literally a lunch stop on the way to a friend’s wedding in upstate New York. (To clear up any sudden confusion as to how the Berkshires would be a lunch stop to on the way from Brooklyn to upstate New York, we were driving from Cape Cod!).
Last summer, after several intense, obsessive hours researching anything related to Stone Barns Center, I suggested that we stop in Great Barrington, home to the original Blue Hill Farm, the namesake for both Blue Hill restaurants. Before driving out to the farm, we stopped at Rubi‘s…and have been talking about it ever since. Every town and neighborhood should have a Rubi’s. It’s part coffee shop, part cafe, part CSA drop off point, and directly connected to Rubiner’s, an artisan grocery store on Great Barrington’s main street. Their coffee is local, their food is from local farmers, their sweets are amazing, and the vibe is both unpretentious and aware. Fittingly, the walls are enhanced by Jason Houston’s stunning farm photography.
Last year’s two hour pit stop in Great Barrington was enough to make us want to return to the Berkshires for a longer stay. Busy schedules meant that we didn’t do much planning for this return trip except for checking out Plate to Plate’s comprehensive Berkshire food blog and a reading a few articles. We excitedly packed for chilly weather and left midday Friday.
Like other fertile farmland in our country, the residents and community of the Berkshires are currently navigating the disconnect between the fertility and harvest of the land juxtaposed with not always reliable access to that food. Reflecting on our trip, it seems as if the farm to table movement is on the cusp of revitalizing and rejuvenating the Berkshires. While the area attracts steady tourism for Tanglewood, the small Berkshire towns are now beginning to appeal to another kind of tourist– one that wants hiking and nature, is supportive of unique establishments, and doesn’t want to sacrifice eating well and sustainably.
From my outsider’s perspective, the towns we spent time in–Millerton, NY, Great Barrington, North Adams, Williamstown, and Lenox, Massachusetts– are not yet towns that can completely provide activities and dining options for a full weekend visit, with the possible exception of Great Barrington. Some towns, like North Adams, are poor and disconnected. Others, like Lenox, seem almost completely designed for the Tanglewood tourist crowd. But, taken as a whole–and if you’re willing to drive and be flexible–a trip to the Berkshires can easily fill a weekend.
See/Do:
Mass MoCA: An amazing reclamation of a 19th century factory campus. The MoCA’s galleries display a superb use of space with meticulously curated exhibits. The exhibits during our visit spanned the gamut from disturbing to revealing and fun.
Great Barrington: You can easily enjoy an entire day or day and a half in Great Barrington. We spent Friday night and Sunday afternoon there, walking around and eating at two of our now-favorite establishments: Allium and Rubi’s. Be sure to visit the farm to table market, Rubiner’s, which is as well-stocked as Brooklyn Larder, or a similar store: carefully and sustainably sourced cheeses, breads, chocolates, meats, and pantry staples, as well as a partnership with Blue Marble ice cream! Great Barrington—and the Berkshires, in general—promotes local businesses through the use of Berkshares. Berkshares are a local currency with an exchange rate of 1 BerkShare to 90 U.S. cents
Drive between McEnroe Organic Farm through Stockbridge, along Route 22: If you’re the kind of person who loves breathtaking scenery, farms aplenty, rolling hills, and not too much development, this is one of the prettiest drives I’ve been on, especially with the current Fall colors.
Williams College: Williams is the picture of a quintessential New England college campus. Home to only 2,000 students, the feel was one of both peace and safety. We were there during a football game, a food symposium, and a wedding. Williams is a beautiful campus to stroll around—be sure to grab coffee at Tunnel City Coffee. The Clark Art Institute is a short drive from Williams’ main campus. Its collection is impressive and accessible: Manet, Degas (all were on loan during our visit), Pissaro, European art, and exhibitions. We were initially drawn to the Clark due to an advertisement we had seen of Juan Munoz’s contemporary sculpture. His pieces evoke the themes of disappearance, loss, and attentiveness. Much of his work was housed in the Stone Hill Center, accessible by a gorgeous nature walk through the woods.
Eat:
Allium: Allium is part of the Mezze Restaurant Group, which is committed to the ‘buy local’ mission. Allium’s interior is a pleasant mix of rustic farm elements, arts and crafts style furniture, and a garage doors. It felt like dining in modern, well equipped barn. Their menu changes regularly. I had homemade pasta topped with every vegetable currently in season (it seemed that way at least!). Justin had, in his words, “amazing” duck and Brussels sprouts. If I had to compare Allium to a restaurant in Brooklyn, it must closely matches Flatbush Farm.
Nudel: Nudel sits about 15-20 guests in total and takes no reservations. That meant that even on a relatively quiet Saturday night, we still had a 30 minute wait. If Nudel was my neighborhood restaurant, I’d probably eat there weekly. The small space contains an open kitchen, with two chefs who made everything to order. Nudel’s menu felt more ‘cutting edge’ than Allium—and the vibe was reminiscent of Brooklyn’s Vinegar Hill House. We started with roasted beets with a pumpkin puree, before dining on a cassoulet with braised pork and fall vegetables (Justin) a fried garlic spaetzle with mushrooms and cheese (me). Both of our dishes were well seasoned and perfectly cooked.
Rubis and Rubiner’s: (see above)
Sleep:
Porches in North Adams: My opinion of Porches is perhaps best summed up by my Tripadvisor review. It’s lovely in theory, and the design is to be applauded. But there are too many negatives to Porches for me to recommend it wholeheartedly. If you’re visiting the Berkshires during the week, you might have a quieter experience than staying there on the weekend. Porches is directly across the street from the Mass MoCA.
Red Lion Inn; Cranwell Resort: We drove past both of these. Stockbridge’s Red Lion Inn has a loyal following and a perfect location. Beyond that, I can’t comment. The Cranwell Resort is a 100 year old hotel and spa outside of Lenox.